Due to our ongoing drought conditions, fire-wise landscaping is now a year-round responsibility in Southern California. While no plants are fire-proof, some can greatly reduce the heat generated during a wildfire, and reduce the ability of the fire to travel to a home or structure.
Here are some fire-wise landscaping tips from BeWaterWise.com:
Keep plants properly watered, especially within 30’ of home but do not overwater.
Use of hard scape materials, such as stone/brick/concrete pathways and patios, and inorganic mulches adjacent to home adds to your fire resistant landscape.
Prune back tree limbs to 10’ from chimney.
Clear leaves and needles out of gutters and roof valleys.
Native plants can be used. Some may require trimming up lower branches. Eliminate fuel ladders from ground to lower then upper branches.
Remove invasive plant species, such as, Arundo, castor bean, and ivy.
Ensure that fuel management activities do not disturb birds’ nests, especially hummingbirds’, which are walnut-sized and easily overlooked.
Maintain defensible space around your home. Check with your local fire dept for the required distance.
Defensible space around your home reduces the risk of fire transmission to your property and allows firefighters safe access around structures. More info about defensible space here: https://www.pacificvistalandscape.com/single-post/2018/04/29/Defensible-Space
Going on vacation?
Before you leave for your vacation, make sure that you have also left your home well prepared in case a wildfire occurs while you are away:
Make sure to close all windows and doors securely
Remove anything flammable around perimeter of house, including any outdoor furniture, cushions, door mats, and trash cans
Clean up all yard debris before leaving, including under decks and in rain gutters
Making the choice to adapt these fire-wise tips can make the difference if a wildfire threatens your home or business. If you would like our landscaping experts to asses your landscaped areas, give us a call at 661-222-7525 for a free consultation!
Creating defensible space is important to improve your home’s ability to survive a wildfire. It’s the space you make between your property's buildings and the surrounding area of landscape.
This buffer zone is essential to prevent the spread of fire to your home. Defensible space is also important to give firefighters a chance to properly defend your home and to increase their safety.
100 Feet of Defensible Space Required by Law
Back in January 2005, state law became effective that extended the defensible space clearance around homes and structures from 30 feet to 100 feet. Studies showed that proper clearance to 100 feet dramatically increases the chance of your house surviving a wildfire. Defensible Space Zones
Two zones make up the required 100 feet of defensible space. California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection and ReadyforWildfire.org have great tips to create a “LEAN, CLEAN and GREEN ZONE” by removing all flammable vegetation within 30 feet immediately surrounding your home. Then create a “REDUCED FUEL ZONE” in the remaining 70 feet or to your property line.
Zone 1
Zone 1 extends 30 feet* out from buildings, structures, decks, etc.
Remove all dead plants, grass and weeds (vegetation).
Remove dead or dry leaves and pine needles from your yard, roof and rain gutters.
Trim trees regularly to keep branches a minimum of 10 feet from other trees.
Remove branches that hang over your roof and keep dead branches 10 feet away from your chimney.
Relocate wood piles into Zone 2.
Remove or prune flammable plants and shrubs near windows.
Remove vegetation and items that could catch fire from around and under decks.
Create a separation between trees, shrubs and items that could catch fire, such as patio furniture, wood piles, swing sets, etc.
Zone 2
Zone 2 extends 100 feet out from buildings, structures, decks, etc.
Cut or mow annual grass down to a maximum height of 4 inches.
Create horizontal spacing between shrubs and trees. (See diagram)
Create vertical spacing between grass, shrubs and trees. (See diagram)
Remove fallen leaves, needles, twigs, bark, cones, and small branches. However, they may be permitted to a depth of 3 inches.
* San Diego County requires 50 feet of clearance in Zone 1. Check with your local fire department for any additional defensible space or weed abatement ordinances. Plant and Tree Spacing
The spacing between grass, shrubs, and trees is crucial to reduce the spread of wildfires. The spacing needed is determined by the type and size of brush and trees, as well as the slope of the land. For example, a property on a steep slope with larger vegetation requires greater spacing between trees and shrubs than a level property that has small, sparse vegetation. Vertical Spacing
Remove all tree branches at least 6 feet from the ground. Allow extra vertical space between shrubs and trees. Lack of vertical space can allow a fire to move from the ground to the brush to the tree tops like a ladder. To determine the proper vertical spacing between shrubs and the lowest branches of trees, use the formula below.
Example: A five foot shrub is growing near a tree. 3×5 = 15 feet of clearance needed between the top of the shrub and the lowest tree branch. Horizontal Spacing
Horizontal spacing depends on the slope of the land and the height of the shrubs or trees. Check the chart below to determine spacing distance.
Our team at Pacific Vista Landscape Services can help your home or commercial property meet the Defensible Space requirements. Call us today for a free estimate and see what we can do for you!
In nature, once living material drops to the ground, decays, and eventually decomposes creating compost. This material is essential because it adds nutrients to the soil helping living plants thrive. It is easy to create your own compost and make your garden thrive as well! The first essential ingredient for creating compost is air. The bacteria and fungus microbes that are in your compost pile need oxygen to live. If your pile is too dense or becomes too wet, the air supply to the inside is cut off and the beneficial organisms will die. Decomposition will slow and an offensive odor may arise. To avoid this, turn and fluff the pile with a pitchfork often, perhaps weekly. You can also turn the pile by just re-piling it into a new pile.
Next is water. One of the most common mistakes in composting is letting the pile get too dry. Your compost pile should be moist as a wrung-out sponge. A moisture content of 40 to 60 percent is preferable. To test for adequate moisture, reach into your compost pile and grab a handful of material and squeeze it; if a few drops of water come out, it's probably got enough moisture, if it doesn't, add water. When you water, it is best to put a hose into the pile so that you aren't just wetting the top. You can also water as you are turning the pile. During dry weather, you may have to add water regularly. During wet weather, you may need to cover your pile. A properly constructed compost pile will drain excess water and not become soggy.
Third essential ingredient is carbon. Microbes need carbon for energy to be able to break down the organic material. Brown yard and garden material such as dry leaves, twigs, hay, or shredded paper can provide the carbon balance for a compost pile. Chop or shred large pieces to 12 inches or shorter (thick, woody branches should be chipped, ground up, or left out).
Lastly, composting needs nitrogen. Nitrogen is the protein required to fuel the bodies of the microbes so they can do their job. Green materials such as grass clipping and landscape trimmings are ideal sources of nitrogen for composting. Vegetable and fruit trimmings and peels can also provide nitrogen for composting. Coffee grounds and tea bags may look brown, but are actually potent nitrogen sources. To reduce the potential for pests or odors, avoid meat or dairy scraps and always bury food scraps deep within the compost pile. Avoid pet feces due to concerns about pathogens. However, manure from chickens, turkeys, cows or horses is rich in nitrogen, and can help your compost pile get to proper temperatures, and make very good compost.
You can compost in a contained bin or, if it's ok with your city, have an outside pile right on the ground. Ideally, the compost pile should be at least three feet wide by three feet deep by three feet tall (one cubic yard). This size provides enough food and insulation for the organisms to live. However, piles can be larger or smaller and work just fine if managed well.
The easiest compost recipe calls for blending roughly one part of green or wet material (which is high in nitrogen) and two parts brown or dry material (which is high in carbon). Having the right ratio of carbon to nitrogen is important. "Piles with too much nitrogen tend to smell, because the excess nitrogen converts into an ammonia gas. Carbon-rich piles break down slowly because there's not enough nitrogen for the microbe population to expand. An ideal compost pile should have a 30:1 C/N ratio. Grass clippings alone have about a 20:1 C/N ratio. Adding one part grass clippings, or other green, to two parts dead leaves, or other brown, will give you the right mix."
(source: http://www.organicgardening.com/learn-and-grow/composting-101)
Simply layer or mix these materials in a pile or enclosure; chop or shred large pieces to 12" or shorter. Water and fluff the compost to add air. Then leave it to the microorganisms, which will break down the material over time.
Compost piles that have the right blend of nitrogen and carbon and are kept moist and fluffed regularly, will heat up to temperatures of 120 to 140 degrees Fahrenheit. The high temperature will kill most weed seeds and speed up the decomposition process so that the compost may be ready in 2 to 3 months or less. Casual compost piles are also quite workable since compost will happen even if you just pile on yard and food waste, water sporadically, and wait. Since these piles don't get too hot, often worms will migrate into these and they will help breakdown material as well. Casual composting can take several months.
Composting is finished when the original material has been transformed into a uniform, dark brown, crumbly product with a pleasant, earthy aroma. There may be a few chunks of woody material left; these can be screened out and put back into a new pile. Besides making incredible, nutrient rich soil for your garden, using left over food scraps in your compost cuts down food waste that would otherwise end up in land fills! Composting is a win-win!
